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Our visit to Kronosaurus Korner  has whet our appetite for dinosaurs and we decided we have to go check out Winton’s Age of Dinosaurs.

We leave our motorhome in the caravan park in Richmond and our furry friend Lisa in air conditioned comfort with the lovely park caretaker and take the alternate Marine Fossil Byway to Winton. A dirt road today in reasonable condition which would quickly become boggy with rain. 

No concern of that today – it hasn’t rained for 2 years out here and the stock and roos we pass along the way are as parched as the flat dry landscape. 43 degrees again outside today. Every occasional scrappy tree we pass has cows, roos or emus under it. Bustards eye us in stillness, hoping they cannot be seen in the barren landscape as we pass. This is what’s known as ‘waiting for the wet’.

No mobile reception out here – even the GPS has given up and shows a blank screen. Luckily we have the old-fashioned technology at the ready! Occasionally we see signs to turn off to stations many kilometres away but pass not one other vehicle. If you have a breakdown out here it could be a long wait till help arrives.

Back on the bitumen near Winton, the landscape changes. Cows give way to sheep. The grass is still dry but there is a little more of it. Little bumpy hillocks and mesas appear in the distance. As we pass them we see the striations in them from the millions of years of receding sea-level and water erosion that has left those harder rocky sections standing above the flat plains.

We arrive at Winton and do a quick reconnoitre of the main street. Neat and green, it’s lined with interesting things to explore. We check in at a local caravan park and quickly erect our tent and unload the car. Sorry Jazz – you will have to stay here bub.

First stop is the Waltzing Matilda Centre that we have heard so much about.

It does not disappoint with room after room filled with Australian artworks, historical artefacts and the photographic history of settlement in central Australia.

Themed around Banjo Patterson’s famed poem Waltzing Matilda which was written whilst he was staying at local station, the swagman takes centre stage throughout the Centre.

In his own mini amphitheatre, the swaggie tells his side of the tale and of the hardships and starvation facing swagmen and travelers throughout the land in the pioneering days.

Photographs and snippets of poetry compliment a museum full of historical information , Australian art and everyday items from a bygone era.

Winton is the birthplace of Qantas and aviation buffs will love viewing the displays and history of our national airline.

Out back, the Qantilda Museum is packed to the rafters with more photos, equipment, relics and collectibles from past centuries.

We laughed because boys had absolutely no clue as to what some of them were – like the phone exchange, old telephones, cameras and cash registers!

Some things were obvious as to their use but their level of basic mechanical operation was a reminder of the evolution of just about everything in today’s modern world to electronics and computerisation.

Eventually we had to drag ourselves away as the centre was closing for the day. Allow at least half a day to thoroughly peruse this unique historical snapshot of Australian pioneering life.

The following day we head out early to the Australian Age of Dinosaurs.

Perched on top of a mesa called ‘The Jump-Up” about 24 kilometres from Winton sits an unexpected sight – a distinctively architectural building. Guarded by a ferocious-looking dinosaur, the building houses the reception, presentation room and Cretaceous Café, the building is perched on the very edge of the mesa and café customers have stunning view included with their morning coffee or snack!

We peruse the many interesting souvenirs & dinosaur fossils whilst waiting for the next tour of the collection room. The presentation is very professional, informative and even enthralling.

Starting with a chance discovery of a fossilised bone on his own property in 1999, the passion, drive and determination of founder David Elliott has resulted in an awe inspiring not-for-profit enterprise: The Australian Age of Dinosaurs (AAOD).

The Australian Age of Dinosaurs is so awesome we wrote a separate page about our wonderful experience there – click here to read & see the photos. Truly an 11 out of 10 adventure- his is a must do for everyone! Make sure you take a look.

Back in Winton, it was time to have a look around the town itself. Wide, clean streets lined with well presented old Australian-style buildings & several hotels. The residents obviously take pride in their town and it shows. No jarring big M’s or Fried chicken joints here – just authentic country Australia.  It is nice to escape the fast-food/big business frenzied advertising that destroys the look and heritage of many a small town centre in our country – Charters Towers springing to mind.

The boys notice one of the several opal and gemstone shops. Not a flash city jewellers, but a store full of shelves lined with beautiful opal and Australian gemstone jewellery and polished stones dug up from sites around Queensland. The friendly owners who do much of the fossicking and cutting themselves display their passion for their beautiful wares.  Kade being a bit of a bower bird has to have a couple of pieces of boulder opal as a souvenir. I would love a few pieces myself but there is a limit to how much you can fit in a 40ft bus!

The cornfield and Fitzmaurice General Merchants, Winton’s first general store is heritage listed and its facia beautifully preserved. Today it contains an arts & crafts shop and an interesting dinosaur diorama & mini museum.

Next door stands the North Gregory Hotel. Whilst most outback pubs are very ‘Australian’ in style – this one stands out as being very different. Inside we are greeted cool air and a stylish art deco interior. How unusual.

The original hotel was built in 1878 by the owners of the general store next door. It was destroyed by fire in 1900, 1915 again in 1946. After petition by the local community, the hotel was rebuilt by the council at a cost of just under half a million dollars before being passed back to private ownership in 1986.

The hotel is beautifully presented with a mixture of art deco artwork, furnishings and fixtures blended with historical photographs of the local community.

This grand old hotel has a distinctive and wonderful air about it. It is not hard to imagine the parties, celebrations and society dinners that must have been held there over the years. I think I would like to stay overnight to experience it myself. Something for another day.

Lark Quarry – Courtesy Red Dirt Tours – Winton

There are many other things to do in Winton but we are running out of time yet again. Originally a sheep station, the 84,000ha Bladensburg National Park, is only a short distance from town. The homestead self guided walk includes the homestead which has been turned into the information centre, staff quarters, meat locker and storehouse. Others have told us that due to the drought it is barren and the roos are dying of thirst and starvation so we decide to give it a miss today.

Lark quarry, holds a snapshot from 95 million years ago. Originally a small shallow lake area, the footprints of around 150 bird-like dinosaurs are captured in stampede across the fossilised muddy surface being chased by a tyrannosaurus type dinosaur – the bones of which have never been recovered in Australia. Located about 2 hours drive away, we do not have time for that either on this trip.

We retire to the caravan park for a swim and relax before starting the pack-up in preparation for an early return to Richmond tomorrow.

Note: Since our visit to Winton, we were very sad to hear that a fire completely destroyed the Waltzing Matilda Centre. The Qantilda Museum is still open and highly recommended as containing the best and most varied collection of every-day items from the past couple of centuries that we have seen on our travels. We are happy to hear that the Waltzing Matilda Centre is being re-built and very much look forward to seeing it on our next visit to Winton. 

Getting there: You can fly to Winton and there are tours that will take you to just about every attraction, however to get the most out of your stay you will need a vehicle. Winton is about 600 kilometres inland from Townsville or about 900 kilometres if travelling inland from Mackay via Longreach.

There is plenty of accommodation in Winton from caravan parks to motels and hotels. If travelling in your own van, consider bringing a full tank of water from elsewhere for drinking as the local water is artesian and has a very sulphurous odour.

We loved Winton. It is an unspoilt outback town with a wealth magnificent landscapes and unusual things to explore and experience. It is definitely on our list of places to visit on our next trip round.

Ever since we headed north from Mackay in June, we had been looking forward to re-visiting the beautiful township and surrounds of Babinda. Sitting about 60klms south of Cairns and 30 klms north of Innisfail, Babinda is nestled in the rain forested foothills of the Great Dividing Range between the peaks of Mt Bartle Frere and Mt Bellenden Kerr.

On previous trips we have camped at the small campgrounds located at The Boulders – a magnificent swimming and picnicing spot about 7klms west through Babinda township. This time however travelling in a 12 metre bus with car trailer attached and with our dog Jazzie, we decided to check out the Babinda RV park which lies on the eastern side of the Bruce Highway opposite the town centre and offers free camping for up to 3 days.

Arriving on a Sunday afternoon in late October, we were greeted with the site of around 100 people frolicking in the waters of Babinda creek which runs alongside the campground! Uh Oh – would there be room for us?

Babinda Camp Grounds & RV Park

Luckily the group were mainly day tourists to the spectacular spot and the RV park itself had plenty of room for us. Shortly we were installed on a nice level grassy site and after a quick unpack and roll out the awnings and chairs and esky…. Time to head down to the creek for a swim.

Ahhhh that’s better! Is there anything better than a cooling dip in a crystal clear freshwater creek on a hot afternoon … with refreshments in hand of course! And so began the unwind into total relaxation after 4 weeks of constant travelling, sightseeing, packing, unpacking and driving.

Babinda is and always has been one of our favourite destinations. Although it’s mighty wet and pretty humid in the summer (over 4 metres of rain annually deposit themselves on the town), the payoff is lush tropical greenery wherever you look and lots of beautiful fresh flowing rivers and creeks to wash away your cares.

Over our stay there we met Mick – on his way to Cooktown for an army mates 60^th birthday celebration – who had been forced to build a camper and leave home because his adult kids wouldn’t, and Lizzie – a single older lady – on the road for 17 years in her happy camper travelling with ‘Raven’ her dog. Mary and Bob, on their second or third trip round Oz in their 30 foot converted bus became good friends. Hayley and Chris along with their three children were on the last leg of their 12 month round Australia jaunt before heading home to the Sunny Coast for Christmas and many other friendly folk from Australia and further afield all planning to spend a day or two at Babinda and most finding it very hard to again pack up and leave that beautiful spot and friendly town.

Previously, the township of Babinda has been a service town for the sugar industry and the local sugar mill which is now closed. Babinda remains a service town for the local community and a beautiful and welcoming township for travellers. A visit to the Babinda info centre located right beside the highway is a must to get the most out of your stay. Staffed totally by friendly volunteers, they have a wealth of local information – and the key to the dump point at the RV park.

Although only having just over 1000 people at the last census, Babinda is surprisingly well serviced by a variety of shops and services. As well as Police, Ambulance & Fire stations, the town has its own hospital with 24 hour emergency department, Government agencies, library schools and many other facilities generally to be found in much larger towns. Two pubs, a supermarket, a quality butchery, delicious must-visit bakery, café’s, Laundromat, arts and crafts store and a variety of other stores provide both tourists and locals with far more than just the basic necessities. One could easily live in this town.

And it’s one of those towns where everyone says ‘Gidday’ or acknowledges you with a smile in the street. The shopkeepers are friendly and so are their staff. Everyone enquires how you are and where you come from.

A testament to the delightful nature of this town was the sign on the newsagency counter above a bowl of coins saying – “If I’m busy – please pay for your papers here”. Encouraging you to not only pay for your paper, but to get your own change if need be.

Daily forays into the surrounding area were always ended with a refreshing swim in the beautiful creek and perhaps a glass of something cool with some new-found friends.

Babinda has some must-see things to do. Even if you are just passing through, you simply must call into the beautiful Babinda Boulders and the magnificent Josephine Falls which are slightly further south via Miriwinni.

The boulders, 7klms west of Babinda have a picturesque picnicking and swimming spot right beside the road. Lush tropical gardens contain gas barbeques & picnic tables, toilets, cold showers, and a huge crystal clear swimming pool provided by nature. A 2klm walking track through the tropical rainforest provides inspiring views of waterfalls and the amazing granite boulders that it is named after.

The indigenous legend of the creation of the boulders involves the forbidden liaison between two young lovers from different tribes and the young woman throwing herself into the waters of Babinda Creek where she drowned when her people came to retrieve her. Signage tells the story of the tragedy and warns visitors not to swim in certain treacherous parts of the creek.

On the opposite side of the road from the picnic area is a beautiful camping ground suited to tents, caravans and smaller motorhomes.

About 7klms south of Babinda is Miriwinni and the turnoff to the magnificent JosephineFalls. An 8klm country road winds through cane farms to the Woonooran National Park and the falls which sit at the foot of Mt Bartle Frere – Queensland’s highest peak.

Mt Bartle Frere also has one of the highest rainfalls of any places in Australia – and by late October when we were there, the local newsletter in Babinda listed the rainfall at the top of the mountain as being over 6.5 METRES of rain for the year to date! No points for guessing why the countryside and forest are so lush!

A 700mt bitumen track delivers you to the falls and sensational swimming area. The falls run constantly all year and visitors are warned to be aware of rapidly rising water levels occurring at times – a product of cloudbursts further up the mountain. For most of the year, breathtakingly cold, clear rainwater cascades serenely down the jumbled granite rocks and boulders, over several slides into the main swimming pool – delight for swimmers and photographers alike.

This is a magnificent place to spend anywhere from a few hours to most of a day, particularly when the weather is warm – but be warned – you will find it hard to drag yourself away!

One of the best things we did while at Babinda – and perhaps one of the best things we did on the six weeks of our North Queensland ‘tour’ was to take a paddle down Babinda Creek. Our new-found friends Mary & Bob recommended this to us.

Around 2-3 kilometres south of Babinda, a bridge crosses Babinda Creek. A break in the guard rail on the western side allows vehicle access to the creek bank itself and a small sandy beach right below the bridge.

This is a fabulous place just to spend a few hours relaxing, (particularly when its hot as the bridge provides shade) and a perfect place to launch a kayak. Along with us for the ride were Hayley, Tayla, Lochie and Josh – making 8 of us altogether – far too many for one double kayak lent to us by Bob & Mary – so we had gathered an airbed and a couple of pool toys to use as floats.

The journey was sensational. The boys took turns in the Kayak while the rest of us were ‘forced’ to just lie on our water-beds and float down the creek. The return trip to the campground took 2 hours of total relaxation. The water was clear and warm, butterflies, birds and fish accompanied our journey and all there was to do was to guide your float along the deepest channels of the creek and to watch the view go by.

This late in October, the creek is quite low and whilst there are deeper parts, much of the creek has but a few inches of water. As it turns out, airbeds float over the surface of the water in all but one or two really shallow spots, whereas the Kayak had to frequently be dragged through the shallows to the next spot. We know who got the best deal here!

Truly, this was a sensational journey – and probably the most relaxed I have felt in a long time. On a scale of 10 it was an 11 and something we will do again when next we visit.

Babinda Kayaks hires double and single kayaks  if you don’t have your own and allows paddlers to start from their property bordering Babinda Creek to travel the 3 or so Kilometres down the creek, finishing at the spot alongside the Babinda RV park. The journey from the bridge is around 1.5klms and could be done by a kayak in about an hour. Truly – for a more relaxing ride – bring your airbed!

Eventually, yet again, we had to drag ourselves away from Babinda. Dean and I have fantasies of buying a block to retire to with Babinda creek running through the black yard. Maybe one day……

Babinda Creek RV Park

Are we having fun yet?

Rock slides are fun!

Yep, defintely having fun.

Are we relaxed yet?

Yep, definitely relaxed.

What about you Dean? Are you relaxed?

What Do You Mean Its Time To Go???